In the closet with Heather Benzie

In part four of our ‘In the Closet with’… series, Heather Benzie spills her sartorial secrets to Natasha Francois.

Vintage doyenne Heather Benzie has a knack for crafting authentic-looking 1940s and 50s high fashion outfits using a hodge podge of vintage, retro and modern items.

The Christchurch-based apparel manager happily mixes eras and has a particular interest in retro pieces which recall earlier eras such as 1930s does 70s items or 80s does 40s or 50s.

But you wouldn’t know this from looking at her. From head to toe, she’s the epitome of elegance and tailored perfection. She’s certainly no vintage snob but by the same token, doesn’t own a single piece of  ‘purpose-designed’ reproduction clothing.

Read on to find out about her eclectic wardrobe, her passion for formal day-wear and skirt suits, and why she believes 1980s clothing is the ‘vintage of the future’.  

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Being ladylike, as I do sometimes for fun, faking the 50s in a modern op shopped blazer. A good blazer is a good blazer, really.

Are you a vintage purist or do you wear repro pieces occasionally too?

I don’t think I own any actual purpose-designed repro. In general, manufactured reproductions and retail shopping don’t really interest me. What I like is the quirky, the individual and the fortuitous. I love to go hunting and see what I find and be inspired by it. And I do value my true vintage for age and authenticity: I suppose I like things that are a bit rare and special.

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The green and white ‘Snow Drop’ post, in a pretty polyester 60s blouse on a chilly early spring day …

But I am definitely not a vintage purist either. If I am wearing a good vintage dress or suit I like to keep my fairly accessories in keeping, but for every day I will happily mix up vintage, retro and modern items to create a look I like, and it might or might not be a historically accurate effect that I am after. And I am really interested in retro pieces which in turn reference earlier eras, like 30s-influenced 1970s fashion and 80s fashions which are similar to styles from the 40s or 50s. For one thing they are handy because you can wear them either way, but I am just fascinated by the overlaps and circularity of fashion. 

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A beautiful Chloe jacket I bought at the Recycle Boutique in Auckland – more expensive than vintage but exquisite really. The vintage of the future.

What are some of your most prized pieces in your vintage collection and why?

I have acquired a nice Lilli Ann suit and some lovely 1950s and 1960s dresses and suits which are always nice to wear for special occasions. They are always elegant and glamorous. One of my favourites is a teeny black silk velvet cheongsam which I will probably never squeeze into again … thank goodness for the everlasting photographic record of the internet! If I am buying proper vintage I try to follow the same guidelines I would for buying a new piece of clothing: is it beautiful or stylish (in my opinion), well designed, and well made of quality fabric?

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I love a little fierce 40s style: actually 80s vintage jacket and veiled hat. Don’t you just love veiled hats?? I do. Hurrah for 80s does 40s!

Any noteworthy recent purchases?

There are a couple of dresses I picked up recently which are quite different from each other but both of which I love. I recently added to my collection a long silk evening dress, maybe 60s, with a stunning Chinese style water lily print. It’s very elegant. And I bought an amazing 1980s velvet cocktail dress with amazing oversized shoulders and puffed sleeves which I love because it is so ’80s’ but it has a real high fashion flair to it – elegant too, in a different way. It’s what I call the vintage of the future: when the rest of the world catches up with me in appreciating 80s fashion I will have the market cornered! 

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One of my nicest things: an ivory cocktail suit. Tres Dior, non?

How did you first become interested in vintage style? Can you remember the first vintage piece you bought? What was it?

I remember from quite a young age loving the the glamorous high style of the old movies which were still pretty standard fare on the telly. As a teenager in the 1980s I got interested in current fashion – it was the age of Madonna, British New Romanticism and punk, so a really fun, eclectic time. There was quite a strong retro element in popular culture, and my friends and I loved visiting the local op shops and mixing up our Glassons stuff with vintage 50s and 60s items, among other things. I used to wear my pencil skirts with op shop 60s cardis and my mother’s gloves and pearls or a silk cocktail jacket and brocade shoes from my Nana. I don’t think we called it ‘wearing vintage’: it was more just a way to stretch our small budgets and wardrobes with nice things!

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The closest I ever get to that immaculate pinup style! – pretty 60s wool frock from Dunedin Savemart, and a hat to minimise my naturally chaotic hair.

What is it about vintage clothing that appeals the most?

I am mostly driven by aesthetics and a kind of curiosity about fashion in general. I love a good outfit of any era and style and really appreciate when anyone puts thought into what they’re wearing. Vintage gives me opportunities to try out different aesthetics. I love co-ordinating all the elements from top to toe: it is like a puzzle you can put together in different ways. Sometimes I want to look smart, or cute or romantic or whatever, and sometimes I am just mucking around.

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I was inspired by Kate Bush’s video for The Hounds Of Love to photograph this romantic 80s Thornton Hall ball gown this way ..

Given that, the question of whether my clothes are a form of self expression is complicated. It is true that wearing different clothes makes you feel different (if you are interested Google ‘enclothed cognition’) and the fact that I experiment with lots of different looks probably indicates that I am happy with being several different people! I have said before that my clothes mostly express a desire to make the everyday just a little more fabulous and interesting!

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This lovely silk 70s wedding dress reminded me of the White Witch in the original Narnia illustrations, with its austere medieval styling.

My photographs are really important to me as a creative outlet. I don’t have time to do many at the moment and it makes me sad! When I have time I really love to photograph some of my clothes in a creative way. I am trying to show some cultural or even an emotional association of the clothing for me. For example, I styled a 1980s ballgown in a photo shoot inspired by a Kate Bush album, as an attempt to illustrate the new romantic spirit. It’s a very personal and impressionistic interpretation, though; not a documentary.

What are your favourite eras when it comes to vintage clothes?

I wear clothes of lots of different eras: more than favourite eras I have favourite styles or genres that I gravitate towards. I adore formal daywear and love to wear a skirt suit with all the accessories – from any decade from the 40s to the 80s. The sharper and more glamorous the look, the better, so I do have a special yen for that high drama, fierce 40s, 50s and 80s style.

I take any opportunity to get dressed up in eveningwear too. I have a lot of elegant 50s and 60s frocks but I have started wearing more funky late 60s and 70s dresses, and of course I can’t resist a good 80s number!

For casual wear I mostly revert to various forms and eras of what you might call romantic and boho style, from 40s looks to current ones. 
If I were going to sum up my preferred style, it is either elegant and formal, or colourful and romantic. With a hint of preppy and the odd cute moment. Go figure. 

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A ravishing gold satin 50s gown against the golden autumn beauty of the Port Hills here in Christchurch.

Where are your favourite shopping haunts and why?

I do the rounds of my local op shops when I can, buy a few things off Trademe and always visit Overflow in Mayfield when we head south. I don’t buy a lot of ‘retail’ vintage only because I’m tight with money. Some of my best things have been bought from friends in the vintage community, because I trust them. 

Do you have any general thoughts about op shopping and vintage shopping in New Zealand?

Well, it is easy to get envious about the seemingly bottomless pool of amazing vintage you see on overseas sites. But paradoxically the small size of the vintage community and stock in New Zealand keeps prices down, which is nice for a collector. I have bought beautiful true vintage suits and dresses off Trademe for a fraction of what the would sell for on an overseas site. And you can definitely still find bits of true vintage in the op shops and fairly inexpensive second hand shops. Sometimes I can’t believe what I find that has been overlooked or consigned as valueless. You do need patience, sharp eyes, some knowledge, and a bit of luck though.

Whose closet do you envy and why?

Marilyn Monroe’s maybe? Ava Gardner’s? 

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Ava Gardner

Who are some of your style icons and influences?

So many influences! I have certainly been influenced by the beauty and glamour of the classic movie stars of the 40s and 50s. My favourite designers are pretty diverse: Vivienne Westwood, Ralph Lauren and Yves St Laurent spring to mind. Fashion advertising and pop culture of all sorts in recent decades interests me.

I don’t really follow any bloggers or such but I totally love Leandra Medine, aka Manrepeller, for the way she has divorced an interest in fashion from conventional notions of femininity, prettiness and sex appeal. I think that is my position, to some degree. Looking pretty is not, in and of itself, particularly interesting to me these days.

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Leandra Medine aka ‘Manrepeller’

Anything that you’d never be caught dead wearing?

Nude lipstick. Trackpants. Activewear unless I am actually running. Any form of imitation Ugg boots or boot slippers. Leggings as pants. Chunky gladiator sandals. Makeup modelled on that of a Khadashian. But that’s only me and what I personally consider attractive or suitable for me. I don’t care what other people wear: we are all different! That’s a good thing. 

What do you think of Heather’s vintage style? Let me know in the comments! xx

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Everything but the kitsch-en sink: Rebecca Smith from Timaru

Welcome to part one of a new series about vintage collectors:

Rebecca Smith shares her passion for playful objects d’art and tongue-in-cheek decoration with Natasha Francois.

The 37-year-old mother-of-three describes her style as “colourful, nostalgic, tacky and a little bit saucy”. So its no surprise her Timaru house is awash with whimsical Siamese cat figurines, saucer-eyed  children, flying seagulls, pink flamingos, cigar lamps, boomerang coffee tables, mid-century kitchen canisters, touches of exotica and lashings of yesteryear.

I first encountered Rebecca about 20 years ago when we were both living in Palmerston North. We were both teenagers into the punk scene then and lapped up the abundance of cheap op shops in the town where we lived. I only recently reconnected again with her via one of my favourite Facebook groups  NZ Lovers of True Vintage.

Read on to find out more about her quirky collection!

You seem to have quite a few different collections on the go. Can you give us a rundown?

At the moment I’m collecting vintage Pyrex, patterned drinking glasses, kitsch art, cute ceramic figurines, Gayware kitchen canisters, Kewpie dolls, Barsony style black lamps,  1960s deckchairs and umbrellas.

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How did these collections start?

 I’ve always been a collector. When I was a child I collected rubber erasers, at 9 it was Babysitter’s Club books,  around 11 I collected troll dolls, then at 13 I had rather an impressive collection of Bob Marley memorabilia – haha – I was obsessed with him! When I was in my mid teens I started collecting vintage homeware/decor and it’s just stuck.

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How would you describe your particular aesthetic?

Colourful, nostalgic, tacky and a little bit saucy. My cousin recently described it as ‘looking like our nana’s house had vomited’! 

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You seem to penchant for mid-century and kitsch: why is this? Does it remind you of childhood?

I think it is mostly nostalgic; although I grew up in the 80s and 90s and loathe anything from that era! I always preferred the things in my grandparent’s houses. Growing up we had a bach at Pleasant Point which had fantastic barkcloth curtains, vinyl armchairs and cupboards full of Crown Lynn colour glaze.  I remember my cousins and I each had one of those sad-eyed children pictures hanging on the bedroom wall – I’ve got a collection of those now.

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How long have you been collecting retro and vintage?

I started about age 14. My mum worked for a law firm at the time and they were dealing with the estate of an elderly hoarder who’d passed away. He had no family and it would have cost a fortune to clean out the house. The museum came and took quite a few pieces first then my mum and I cleaned the rest. It was absolutely filthy – cobwebs thick from the ceiling down to head height, mouse poop everywhere. There was no payment involved but we were allowed to keep whatever we wanted. So much of it was damaged beyond repair but I did start a collection of Vernon Ward prints from there! When I was 16, I went flatting in Palmerston North and starting collecting the retro glassware and furniture. At the time (mid 90s) there was an abundance of great op shops around and mid-century stuff was cheap and relatively easy to come by.

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Favourite time period and why?

I love the shapes and lines of 1950s furniture especially Atomic designs but I think the 1960s would be my favourite era because of the bold patterns and clashing colours.

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Does your fascination for collecting vintage extend into your wardrobe and overall appearance?

My wardrobe is mostly vintage or vintage inspired. Lots of colour, lots of frocks. I don’t collect anything per se but there is definitely a theme going on there. The only pants I own are two pairs of jeans – I wear dresses or skirts all the time. A 50s or 60s dress with boots or tights and heels is probably my ‘go to’ look. I struggle for work because our dress code is ‘current in-season’ fashion which I mostly despise. It means I have to keep two wardrobes going which gets expensive but I try to give my work outfits a retro twist where I can. Last winter was great as there was a 70s revival in women’s fashion with lots of corduroy, pinafores and pussybow shirts.

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 Fave places to source bargains and treasure?

I love scouring the op shops of Oamaru. It’s an hour south of here but I always find great stuff at cheap prices and there are so many. I often take the kids for weekend a day trip. 

I’m also a big fan of the local ‘dump shop’ the Crows Nest here in Timaru which is a great place to find cheap crockery and project furniture.

If I’m in the North Island: Savemart in Wanganui is hands down the best place to find vintage clothing. Their retro section is huge.

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What are some of your favourite pieces in your collection and why?

My favourite pieces are the ones I inherited from my grandparents- purely for a sentimental reasons: a gorgeous African black lady lamp, three ceramic flying seagulls that were always on their lounge room wall and a green apple-shaped ice bucket that my brother tries to steal every time he comes over!

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Is your partner a collector too?

He collects bicycles and surfboards – thankfully his passions are more outdoorsy – there’s no room in the house for another collector.

What do your kids think of your decorating style?

The little ones love their vintage-inspired bedroom. My cabinets of ceramic nicknacks are a source of constant frustration for them though. They want to play with all the cute little cats and elves but they’re not allowed to. It can be awkward when parents of their friends visit us for the first time because some of the artwork around the place is a bit risque and I’m never sure how they’re going to react.

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Tell us about your retro caravan. I understand it’s kitsch/ tiki inspired. And how did you decorate it?

Our caravan is a 1964 Zephyr. The theme started with the wallpaper which I found on the amazing Spoonflower site. It’s a tiki, surf and hula-girl print. The colour scheme for the interior and exterior draws upon colours from that. I made all of the curtains and blinds and most of the cushions. My husband painted the interior and built the table. He had to sew the covers for the squabs because I was pretty over the sewing by that point! The guy at the bench top company freaked out when I requested bright orange bench tops – people are pretty conservative down here.

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Any pieces you dream of finding? What are they?

I’d love to find an atomic lamp with one of those double-tier fibre glass shades! Never gonna happen in New Zealand but dreams are free right?

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Who has a collection that you envy?

My ex-boyfriend Brian (you might remember him from Cuba Street Records in Palmerston North) has an absolutely huge collection of 50s-70s TV shows, game shows, b-movies, sci-fi and general obscura. Much of it is still on VHS but he’s got everything catalogued  in little notebooks. There are shelves and shelves of videos right up & down his hallway. He’s never embraced the digital age but host the best video nights!

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Do you have any general thoughts on op shopping/ treasure hunting in New Zealand to share with our readers?

There’s still plenty of places to find great things at good prices if you look often enough. Wellington had all but dried up three years ago when we left there and I find Christchurch to be overpriced. Levin, Wanganui, Hawera and New Plymouth would be among my favourite places to op shop.

 

What do you think of Rebecca’s sweet retro digs? Please let me know in the comments!

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